The morning air was cool and damp, laced with the earthy scent of wild sage and reeds. It was just after sunrise in the Okavango Delta, and the bush was waking up in its own majestic way. Birds flitted from tree to tree in flashes of colour, and golden light danced across the dew-kissed grass. I was on my first self-drive safari, camping near one of the lesser-known water channels north of Moremi Game Reserve, and nothing could have prepared me for my first unforgettable hippo encounter in the Okavango Delta.

We had set up our rooftop tent the evening before on the edge of a seasonal lagoon. It was so peaceful—the water shimmered in the late light, reflecting the silhouettes of nearby water lilies and the overhanging branches of sausage trees. Our professional guide, Morgan, had warned us about keeping our distance from water bodies at night due to hippos, but I hadn’t yet seen one up close. I had only heard their deep, rumbling grunts echoing through the night like thunder rolling across the floodplains.

As the sun rose higher, the air warmed slightly and the smell of fresh coffee filled our little camp. I stood a few steps from our 4×4, holding my enamel mug, gazing across the lagoon. I was barefoot, foolishly relaxed, when I noticed something strange—a faint ripple in the water. At first, I thought it might be a fish or perhaps a submerged log swaying with the current.

But then I saw the eyes.

Two rounded, glistening orbs broke the surface, followed by the tip of a wrinkled, broad snout. It was a hippo—massive, silent, and unexpectedly close. My heart raced. There it was, only a few metres from the edge of the water, watching me with calm but alert eyes. It must have been there the whole time, partially submerged, hidden in plain sight.

I took an instinctive step back, and that’s when I heard it: a short, explosive snort followed by a low, bellowing grunt. The hippo shifted slightly, causing a small wave to roll toward the shore. I remembered what our guide Morgan once told us: never get between a hippo and the water, back away slowly without turning your back, and never run, as this may trigger a chase. The problem was, this one was already in the water—and I was too close for comfort.

Morgan whispered urgently from behind the vehicle, “Don’t move too fast. Just step back slowly.”

I obeyed, every muscle in my body tense. Step by step, I backed away, maintaining eye contact without being confrontational. The hippo watched for a moment longer, then slowly turned its bulky head and sank below the surface, disappearing as silently as it had appeared. My breath came back in one long, shaky exhale.

That moment changed the way I viewed the bush.

Until then, I’d admired wildlife from a safe distance—giraffes browsing on tall acacias, elephants lumbering along the horizon, and lechwe antelopes springing through the marshes. But the hippo encounter in the Okavango Delta reminded me that out here, we are the guests, not the masters.

That day, we decided to explore a nearby water channel by mokoro, a traditional dugout canoe, booked through Semowi Nature Camp and steered by local polers. They’ve been navigating these waters for generations and know animal behaviour deeply. As we glided quietly along the channel, our poler shared stories about hippos—how they create their own paths underwater, how fiercely territorial they can be, and how surprisingly fast they are on land, especially when startled.

They showed us signs of recent hippo activity: wide tracks leading from the water into the reeds, piles of dung spread by their rotating tails, and chewed grass tufts.

Floating silently along the water, I spotted another pod of hippos in the distance, only their eyes and nostrils showing. The polers kept us at a respectful distance. One of the larger males opened its mouth wide in a display of dominance—a yawn that revealed tusk-like teeth. It was both magnificent and terrifying.

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Tips for First-Time Visitors After a Hippo Encounter in the Okavango Delta

1. Respect Water Bodies: Never assume a lagoon or channel is empty. Hippos can hold their breath for several minutes and lie submerged, invisible until they surface. Always scan carefully before approaching any water.

2. Keep Your Distance: Whether on foot, in a vehicle, or by boat, maintain a safe distance. If a hippo feels cornered or threatened, it can charge—and can outrun a human over short distances.

3. Avoid Camping Too Close to Water: Even calm-looking lagoons can be hippo pathways. At night, they leave the water to graze and may pass through campsites.

4. Listen Carefully: Hippo grunts, splashes, and snorts are common after dark. If you hear them, stay inside your tent or vehicle. This also applies during cloudy or rainy weather, when they graze more actively.

5. Travel With a Local Guide: Especially on your first trip, a local guide is invaluable. They understand animal behaviour, know warning signs, and help keep you safe.

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That night, back at camp, I sat quietly under the stars, the memory of those eyes in the morning light still vivid. In the distance, the hippos began their evening calls again—a deep chorus of grunts, bellows, and snorts echoing across the floodplain. This time, instead of fear, I felt awe.

The Delta had taught me a lesson I will never forget: in Botswana’s wild heart, nature is powerful, raw, and deeply beautiful. And the hippo—that massive, unexpected creature of the shallows—had become my most unforgettable teacher.

This story was written by Aubrey Moremi, intern at Semowi Nature Camp, as part of his experience living and learning in the Okavango Delta.